I dream of Jeannie...a wonderfully inspiring life*.
In her 60's Jeannie still has only one thing in mind: The search for the best wave in Waikiki Beach. Jeannie Chesser surfing for over 50 years, was U.S. champion – and lost her son in a fatal ride to the sea.
The white tuft is noticeable with the surfers at Ala Moana Bowl. Jeannie is a petite lady with white short hair and usually snaps the best waves. She surfs very well and – unusual for her age – still with a shortboard.
She is one of the eldest women’s surfing in Hawaii and still can win competitions. But for Jeannie surfing is not just a sport, it keeps her alive. When she tells her story, one begins to understand why.
The island of Oahu is a surfing mecca, even for the wave-drenched Hawaiian. She surfed for 30+ years in the bowl and can at times recall where they had the waves to themselves.
Yet she does not think about quitting. “I would rather die on my board,” she says.“Surfing made me addicted” When Jeannie surfs, she only sees the crystal clear water, the rocks, Diamond Head, and the surrounding sandy beaches.